Amsterdam & Haarlem Itinerary: A Weekend in the Netherlands
Known for its network of canals, cycling lanes, tulip fields, and picturesque windmills, the Netherlands offers beautiful landscapes and an abundance of culture.
The Netherlands is perfect for a spontaneous weekend away. Known for its network of canals, cycling lanes, tulip fields, and picturesque windmills, this country offers beautiful landscapes and an abundance of culture.
Nestled in the heart of the Netherlands lies its capital - Amsterdam. Amsterdam is an incredibly popular tourist destination and is definitely one to be ticked off the bucket list. From their iconic canals and Stroopwafels to their museums and cultural scene, this city is well worth a visit.
My friend and I visited Amsterdam in December, so Christmas was well and truly in the air. It may have been a tad cold, but it was worth it for the Christmas lights and festive shopping. Rather than staying in the capital itself, we stayed in the nearby city of Haarlem. Also known as a ‘Little Amsterdam’, Haarlem is just a 15-minute train journey west of the capital city and offers just as much as its bigger counterpart.
For those who want to experience Amsterdam without too much hustle and bustle (and who also fancy saving a pretty penny), then this itinerary is just for you. Let me take you through a four day trip that delves into two amazing cities and captures where to stay, what to see, what to do, and of course, what to eat!
Day 1: Fly to Amsterdam & head to Haarlem
We flew from Newcastle to Amsterdam via KLM (rather than boarding the infamous 17-hour ferry), and it was a quick 1-hour journey. We had a lovely afternoon flight so we landed at Schiphol Airport at around 4pm. Our first mission: make our way to Haarlem.
Getting the bus: We decided to get the bus from the airport to Haarlem. The Bus 300 provides an easy direct transfer from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport to Haarlem Station and costs around €4 - €6. The bus takes around 35 minutes and will take you through various drop-offs spots including De Hoek, Hoofddorp Station, as well as multiple locations within Haarlem’s centre. You also won't have to worry about long waits as buses run frequently, departing approximately every 10 minutes from platform B8-B10.
Getting the train: You can catch the train from Schiphol Airport to Haarlem, although there is one change along the way. From Schiphol, you will take the train to Amsterdam Sloterdijk. Once here, you will change platforms and board the Intercity 2252 Vlissingen which takes you straight to Haarlem Station in 10 minutes. In total, this journey will take around 30 minutes and costs around €6 - €8.
Getting a taxi: Although not the cheapest option, there are many taxis available at Schiphol Airport. The journey to Haarlem will take around 18 minutes and will cost between €50- €60 - but I’d definitely recommend getting public transport for this one!
Why stay in Haarlem?
You may be wondering: why stay in Haarlem? Simply put, it’s a more budget-friendly alternative to Amsterdam, but with all the same benefits. You get to experience Amsterdam - which is just a 15 minute train journey from Haarlem - while also experiencing the culture of a whole other city.
Haarlem is also an ideal retreat for those who want to have a bit of of quiet in the evenings as well as save a few pennies on accommodation. It’s the perfect balance of exploring the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam while also experiencing a bit more of the surrounding region.
Where to stay in Haarlem
Hotel
For our trip, we decided to stay at the Boutique Hotel Staats Haarlem, a super unique hotel based in a former school building. The hotel is perfectly located on the edge of Haarlem’s city centre and is just a 6-minute walk from the train station.
The interior of this hotel was so unique. Every hotel room is furnished differently with various layouts and themes, and they are all completed with amazing attention to detail. If you don’t mind open layout showers and quirky room layouts, then this hotel is an absolute gem.
There is also hot food and a lovely continental spread for those who fancy breakfast, as well as a homely lounge area by the bar where you can sit and relax (you may even see the local cat visiting for a quick tipple). I have to say, the staff here were so incredibly friendly and welcoming! I noticed that this warm hospitality extended to everyone I encountered in the Netherlands, from the hotel to bars to cafés, making the whole experience feel like being part of a close-knit community.
Airbnb
We also checked Airbnb before booking our trip and there are some gorgeous flats available in Haarlem and located in the most quaint and rustic buildings. These are, however, a little pricier than staying in a hotel, so I’d definitely recommend Airbnb if you’re visiting as a larger group!
What’s in Haarlem?
Haarlem is a stunning city. Although not as large or well known as its eastern neighbour Amsterdam, Haarlem holds just as much history. Populated by around 160,000 people, this city is the capital of the North Holland region and was once a North Sea trading port. It’s known for its art museums and surrounding tulip fields, as well as for its shopping.
Similar to Amsterdam, its interweaving streets and canals are something straight out of a storybook. Bikes line the cobbled streets, flowers frame windowsills, and arched bridges hug the canals edges. The iconic gabled houses border the canals and at Christmas, their large windows reveal the warm glow of twinkling trees.
Day 2: Exploring Haarlem
We spent the second day delving deeper into the cobbled streets of Haarlem and seeing just what this gorgeous city had to offer.
Haarlem is such a vibrant city - even walking the streets alone was enough to take in the sights. I learnt that as the centre of a major flower-bulb-growing district, you can even visit nearby tulip fields and see a flower parade head straight through Haarlem’s centre. (For all you Wicked movie fans out there, just picture the opening scene of Munchkinland). However, the best chance of seeing this is in tulip season, which is between mid-April to mid-May.
So until then, here are some other recommendations for your visit to Haarlem.
What to do in Haarlem
Historic City Centre: Walking the cobbled streets of Haarlem’s city centre is a feast for the eyes with its charming buildings and picturesque squares. You can take a walk along the canals, explore the market squares, and find a cosy café for a coffee. There are also endless gorgeous backdrops for photos!
Grote Markt: The Grote Markt is Haarlem’s medieval central market square which houses a variety of bars, cafés, and some of Haarlem’s most notable buildings. The Saint Bavo Cathedral looms over the square and is open to visit for just €4. You can also visit the open-air market on Mondays and Saturdays in the square, which sells bread, flowers, jewellery, and everything in between.
Windmill De Adriaan: The windmill at De Adriaan is one of Haarlem’s most iconic landmarks. Located on the bank of the river Spaarne, this working windmill offers an insight into traditional Dutch windmill technology. You can also take a 45-minute guided tour around the windmill and see amazing views of the river Spaarne and city centre from the 12-metre-high viewing platform.
Take a Canal Tour: Haarlem’s canals are stunning. If you fancy heading onto the water, there are many canal tours available where you can learn about Haarlem’s history, or even experience a beer-tasting cruise. If we had more time here, I’d definitely consider hopping on one of these cruises to take in the city’s sights from the water!
Shopping: If you ever fancy a break from sight-seeing and are craving some retail therapy, Haarlem is great for shopping (it’s actually been voted Best Shopping City in the Netherlands many times!). There is a wide range of shops to choose from, from boutiques and independent stores to your big franchises such as Zara and Bershka. It was so handy for Christmas shopping!
Cafés in Haarlem
First stop, as always, is coffee.
As it does rain often in the Netherlands, finding shelter in a cosy café is often a perfect way to avoid the showers. Luckily, on every corner in Haarlem, there seemed to be another super trendy coffee shop awaiting our arrival. The hardest task of the day seemed to be choosing which café to go to for our morning caffeine buzz, but I guess there are worse problems to have!
These are the cafés we chose to visit in Haarlem:
Native: Tucked neatly in a small street just off Haarlem’s main shopping area, lies Native - a rustic café with a lovely interior and lush greenery. They serve good quality coffee, as well as a selection of pastries and cakes. As you can see, we caved and got ourselves some pastries which were just as delicious as they look. Such a hidden gem!
La Maru: La Maru is both a café and bakery, well known for its famous cinnamon buns. We got a selection of croissants - one chocolate and one pistachio - which were unreal. The pistachio croissant, named the Dubai croissant, was similar to the viral Dubai chocolate and was filled with creamy pistachio and crunchy kunafa. You HAVE to try it.
Toast: Toast is a lovely café that also doubles as a B&B. They serve yummy breakfast and lunch dishes, as well as boozy bottomless brunch options. The service was amazing and so friendly - we even had a try of homemade liqueur! You will also get a very warm welcome from Guus, who will gladly sit by your feet and ask for cuddles. 🐾 (I died from cuteness, he was so sweet!).
Where to eat in Haarlem
Jopenkerk
Jopenkerk is a must-do when you visit Haarlem. This restaurant and beer brewery is so unique as it’s situated in a former church, having completed its transformation in 2010. The brewery serves a wide range of Jopen beers, hence the name, Jopenkerk (Jopen = the beer brand, Kerk = church in Dutch).
The interior was so impressive with its stained glass windows and huge copper kettles in which the beer is brewed. It’s an incredibly atmospheric venue and hugely popular with locals and visitors alike. The outside area also makes it perfect for a summers day drink - I’d definitely recommend a visit!
Restaurants we visited:
Venezia: On our first night, we had dinner at the charming Italian restaurant, Venezia. Reasonably priced and with friendly service, this was a perfectly good authentic Italian restaurant. You can even see them prepare the pizzas by the window, as well as have your pizzas delivered in heart shapes. Now that’s service.
Café Samabe: We went for an Indonesian-inspired meal on our last night, paying a visit to Café Samabe. While on the pricier side, it was well worth it as we had a delicious selection of curries, rice and vegetables, as well as some boujie cocktails. You can choose whether to have sharer plates or individual main dishes, and there is a wide variety of curries, satays, or noodle dishes. Highly recommend.
Day 3: A day trip to Amsterdam
Time to head into the big city.
On our third day, we headed into the capital to see the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam. After taking the 6-minute walk from our hotel to Haarlem train station, we took the 15-minute train journey east to the capital.
Amsterdam was so much bigger than I imagined (I didn’t realise there were that many canals - don’t judge me). And luckily, we chose a clear and crisp sunny day to take our day trip and the views were absolutely stunning, albeit a bit cold.
So, what did we get up to?
Things to do in Amsterdam
There are so many cultural intricacies to Amsterdam. Hidden within its elaborate maze of canals is an abundance of history and culture that makes the city was it is today. We spent only one day here, but you could easily spend 3 days seeing all the sights and visiting the city’s landmarks.
Here’s a look into what we got up to, as well as some recommendations of where to visit and what to see.
Berensluis Bridge
Amsterdam is very well-known for its canals and bridges. In fact, there is a grand total of 165 canals and more than 1,700 bridges in Amsterdam. No wonder it’s called the ‘Venice of the North’.
With so many to choose from, Amsterdam offers a huge choice of stunning bridges, each providing the perfect backdrop that captures the city’s essence. We chose to see Berensluis, located just a 20-minute walk from Amsterdam Central Station.
The Berensluis is a small bridge across the Prinsengracht canal in the western part of Amsterdam. There’s bikes, flowers, and boats passing by, as well as the iconic crooked houses that line the canal’s edge. You can also see the bell tower of the Western Church in the background, which is a much-beloved symbol of the Dutch capital. Such a gorgeous view.
Other popular bridges include the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) and the Torensluis Bridge.
XtraCold Ice Bar
It’s not a visit to Amsterdam without a trip to the ice bar, right? This is a bit of fun if you fancy going for a drink, and while it may be a bit gimmicky, it’s still entertaining. A ticket is around €25 per person and includes 3 drinks.
After watching a very dramatic Pirates of the Carribean-esque video upon arrival, you’re given a puffy coat and gloves (side note: this went over the furry coat I was already wearing, and I was still cold), and you then make your way into the ice bar.
You have a maximum time of 20 minutes inside the ice bar - I lasted around 10 minutes because, despite the gloves and extra coat, my fingertips could not handle the -10° temperatures. You know it’s cold when the beer inside your glass is warmer than the glass it’s in (which is also made out of ice, FYI).
Was it a glorified walk-in freezer? Maybe - but it’s a good laugh . Also, the lighting in the ice bar was so flattering, so if you’re after a good insta pic then get yourself in there.
Walk the neighbourhoods
Beyond the waterways and bicycles of the city centre, Amsterdam boasts a wealth of quirky neighbourhoods that offer a whole new world in which to venture. If you fancy a breather from the hustle and bustle, there are plenty of areas to take a nice stroll and see a different side of the city.
Oud-Zuid: We had a wander just beyond the city centre in Amsterdam’s Oud-Zuid neighbourhood. This area had such a lovely cosmopolitan feel to it, with its leafy streets and 19th-century architecture. It’s much more low-key than other touristy areas of the city, but is close enough if you don’t want to venture too far. For art lovers, as well as those who want to see a more serene side of Amsterdam, Oud-Zuid is a perfect neighbourhood to explore.
It is also home to the famous Van Gogh museum and well as Vondelpark, one of Amsterdam’s most popular parks.
Activities in Amsterdam
There are so many fun activities in Amsterdam, including:
Anne Frank House: A biographical museum dedicated to Anne Frank and her life, the Anne Frank House is located at Prinsengracht in Amsterdam. The museum is well worth a visit, as it is set in the house in which Anne Frank and her family hid during the war, giving a real glimpse into their experiences.Tickets are €16 per person.
Van Gogh museum: Located in the Oud-Zuid neighbourhood, the Van Gogh museum is known as one of the most popular museums in the world. With over 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 700 letters, the Van Gogh museum is home to the largest collection of works by Vincent van Gogh. Tickets are €24 per person.
Tony Chocolonely: If you are a Tony Chocolonely super fan, then you are in luck, as there is a Tony Chocolonely Superstore located in the city centre. This store offers an immersive experience where you can learn about their mission, the chocolate-making process, and their efforts in combatting unfair labour practices in the cocoa industry. You can also customise your own chocolate bar!
What to eat in Amsterdam
Stroopwafel
Stroopwafels are a must when you’re in Amsterdam. Stroopwafels are a Dutch biscuit delicacy, consisting of two thin waffles filled with a gooey caramel syrup.
We visited the super popular Van Wonderen, located in the heart of the city centre. Van Wonderen are known to experiment with their toppings, with combinations ranging from chocolate and pistachios to strawberries and marshmallows. We kept things super simple and went for plain chocolate.
As Van Wonderen is so popular, you can expect a queue. One stroopwafel is around €9 (which is a bit pricey) so we shared one between us which was more than enough! There are many other stroopwafel vendors in Amsterdam so I’d maybe recommend visiting a smaller, less touristy option.
Oorlog Fries
When you think of Amsterdam, it's hard to not picture the iconic newspaper-wrapped fries topped with saucy goodness. That’s why we made sure to get a taste of these thick-cut Dutch fries when we made our visit.
After a long day walking the streets of Amsterdam, our last stop was at Friteshuys located next to the Royal Palace. Here, we tried the iconic Patatje oorlog, also known as ‘war fries’, due to the battlefield of toppings that it comes covered in. These fries are topped with mayonnaise, finely chopped onions, and a thick peanut satay-style sauce, and typically served in a paper cone.
It’s a messy affair but very, very worth it. At first glance, the toppings can seem a strange combination, but don’t be fooled - it’s a match made in heaven. Trust me.
And that’s a weekend well spent in the Netherlands. Both Haarlem and Amsterdam offer the perfect mix of culture, history, and vivacious city life.
For those seeking a more chilled weekend, Haarlem is a perfect place to stay if you fancy balancing the busy city life with quieter evenings. Brimming with cosy cafés and full of hospitable warmth, it’s so easy to feel at home here and spend the weekend as a local. The quaint streets, gabled houses, and charming windmills are guaranteed to make you feel like you’re in a completely different world - the perfect getaway.
Amsterdam is just a stone’s throw from your doorstep, and a quick train journey will get you directly to its colourful city centre. Whether you’re after a slice of history, a peek into world-famous artwork, or want to experience the vibrant social life of the city centre, you are spoilt for choice in the Dutch capital.
Canals, cobbled streets, and cosy cafés. Why not take a bite out of the Dutch life? You won’t regret it.
